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How a drab Soviet metropolis became Central Asia’s capital of cool
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Several cities around the globe have reinvented themselves in recent years, but none more successfully than Almaty.

Since the collapse of the USSR, Kazakhstan’s largest city (population 2.2 million and growing) has evolved from a drab, run-of-the-mill Soviet metropolis into the urban star of Central Asia.
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Along the way, the city has developed one of the world’s most beautiful metro systems, grown into a thriving banking and finance center, complemented its vintage bazaars with luxury boutiques and modern shopping malls and reshaped its traditional gastronomy into a nouvelle cuisine that’s drawing raves from foodies around the world.

Almaty is also evolving into the cultural and artistic hub of Central Asia. It’s already got several world-class museums (including a “secret” underground collection that doesn’t even have a name) and a dazzling new cultural center slated to open early next year.

“It’s an incredibly livable city,” says long-time American resident Dennis Keen, a historic preservation advocate and founder of Walking Almaty.

“Green and clean. You don’t need a car. The public transit here is fantastic. And it’s very much the center of contemporary art and dining in Central Asia.”

Keen adds that whenever he tells someone back home that he lives in Kazakhstan, “Borat” inevitably comes up. The movie’s title character doesn’t paint a very flattering portrait of the Central Asian nation. But nowadays one is tempted to think that if Borat visited Almaty now, he would say, “Very nice!”

“You get some of me but not tomorrow as they want me in as soon as I can make it happen. This is the one time when they say jump and I ask how high due the financial gains the company could benefit from and it being important enough for the client to appear in person.”

“Well I get an extra night of you at least! I wonder what we could do with that? Meantime, what about food? I am starving and delicious as it was a second breakfast is not quite enough to replenish me!”

“Well get something on and we’ll sort that out first.”

We drove into town and decided that a daytime visit to Charlie’s was going to be the answer. I parked in the bar lot and Elise dashed in to change into something more appropriate, jeans and a t-shirt along with her biker jacket but keeping her Converses on.

Walking down to the restaurant was different from the middle of the night visits as the streets were bustling and all of the shops and outlets were open.

Reaching Charlie’s we entered the front door and sat in a booth near the window. A beautiful young American Chinese girl came,smiled and said hello to Elise and gave us menus and asked if we wanted drinks in the meantime.

"No thanks Lin just a pot of Jasmine tea for us please." Lin went back to the kitchen area. “No booze for me today as I will have to work in the bar so it is just tea for me.”

Not in a drinking mood either, I agreed with her."

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